Cheese takes center stage in so many beloved dishes, it’s easy to forget the subtle, playful, balancing qualities it can provide — whether injecting umami into the background of a dish, or toying with our expectations about classic compositions, from soufflés to cacio e pepe to quesadillas.
Aged Gruyere balances the sweet flavor of white chocolate and mango in the recipe below, which originally appeared in the May/June issue of The National Culinary Review.
Read more about the many qualities cheese can bring to a menu.
Recipe: White Chocolate Bonbons With Aged Gruyere Ganache
by Jérôme Landrieu, Chef, Cacao Barry, Chicago
Yield: about 50 bonbons
Toasted coconut base
26.5 g passion fruit puree
34.5 g granulated sugar
130 g desiccated coconut
METHOD: Simmer puree and sugar. Add desiccated coconut. Toast in oven at 248ºF for 20 minutes, mixing every 5 minutes. Reserve.
Almond coconut praline base
15.9 g water
55.8 g granulated sugar
16.7 g powdered glucose
19.1 g toasted coconut flakes
87.7 g toasted almonds
0.7 g vanilla bean
4 g milk powder 0%
METHOD: Make a brun caramel with water, sugar and glucose. Pour over coconut, almonds and vanilla bean. Grind with milk powder until praline texture. Set aside.
60 g Cacao Barry Zephyr 34% white chocolate
240 g Cacao Barry deodorized cocoa butter
100 g almond coconut praline base
1 g Cacao Barry pailleté feuilletine
1 g toasted coconut base
METHOD: Melt chocolate and cocoa butter. Add praline base. Crystallize. Add feuilletine and coconut base. Cast in 2-mm frame; let set. Cut 25-mm disks.
65.3 g premium dried apricots
130.5 g mango puree
32.6 g passion fruit puree
9.8 g granulated sugar
9.8 g sorbitol powder
2 g pectin NH
METHOD: Dice apricots. Add mango and passion fruit purees. Let soak overnight. Following day, blend mix; add dry ingredients. Simmer mixture. Chill. Cast in half-sphere silicone molds with 19-mm cavity. Freeze.
Aged Swiss Gruyere Cheese Ganache
166 g cream 36%
15 g powdered sorbitol
65 g aged Gruyere cheese
185 g Cacao Barry Zephyr 34% white chocolate
12 g butter
5 g Cacao Barry deodorized cocoa butter
METHOD: Combine cream, sorbitol and Gruyere. Heat mixture to 70ºC; pour over chocolate and butters. Make an emulsion. Chill to 28ºC. Cast.
Cacao Barry Zephyr 34% white chocolate, tempered
Yellow and white colored cocoa butter, tempered
1. Spray molds with colored cocoa butter according to photo or design of choice. Let set.
2. Make chocolate shells with Zephyr 34% white chocolate.
3. Pipe 2 g ganache in each cavity. Place half sphere of mango confit; top with another 1 g ganache.
4. Place disk of crunchy on top.
5. When ganache is set, seal with more Zephyr 34% white chocolate.