Recipe: White Chocolate Bonbons With Aged Gruyere Ganache

Cheese takes center stage in so many beloved dishes, it’s easy to forget the subtle, playful, balancing qualities it can provide — whether injecting umami into the background of a dish, or toying with our expectations about classic compositions, from soufflés to cacio e pepe to quesadillas.

Aged Gruyere balances the sweet flavor of white chocolate and mango in the recipe below, which originally appeared in the May/June issue of The National Culinary Review.

Read more about the many qualities cheese can bring to a menu.

Recipe: White Chocolate Bonbons With Aged Gruyere Ganache

White Chocolate Bonbons With Aged Gruyere Ganache

by Jérôme Landrieu, Chef, Cacao Barry, Chicago

Yield: about 50 bonbons

Toasted coconut base
26.5 g passion fruit puree
34.5 g granulated sugar
130 g desiccated coconut

METHOD: Simmer puree and sugar. Add desiccated coconut. Toast in oven at 248ºF for 20 minutes, mixing every 5 minutes. Reserve.

Almond coconut praline base
15.9 g water
55.8 g granulated sugar
16.7 g powdered glucose
19.1 g toasted coconut flakes
87.7 g toasted almonds
0.7 g vanilla bean
4 g milk powder 0%

METHOD: Make a brun caramel with water, sugar and glucose. Pour over coconut, almonds and vanilla bean. Grind with milk powder until praline texture. Set aside.

Coconut/Almond Crunchy
60 g Cacao Barry Zephyr 34% white chocolate
240 g Cacao Barry deodorized cocoa butter
100 g almond coconut praline base
1 g Cacao Barry pailleté feuilletine
1 g toasted coconut base

METHOD: Melt chocolate and cocoa butter. Add praline base. Crystallize. Add feuilletine and coconut base. Cast in 2-mm frame; let set. Cut 25-mm disks.

Mango Confit
65.3 g premium dried apricots
130.5 g mango puree
32.6 g passion fruit puree
9.8 g granulated sugar
9.8 g sorbitol powder
2 g pectin NH

METHOD: Dice apricots. Add mango and passion fruit purees. Let soak overnight. Following day, blend mix; add dry ingredients. Simmer mixture. Chill. Cast in half-sphere silicone molds with 19-mm cavity. Freeze.

Aged Swiss Gruyere Cheese Ganache
166 g cream 36%
15 g powdered sorbitol
65 g aged Gruyere cheese
185 g Cacao Barry Zephyr 34% white chocolate
12 g butter
5 g Cacao Barry deodorized cocoa butter

METHOD: Combine cream, sorbitol and Gruyere. Heat mixture to 70ºC; pour over chocolate and butters. Make an emulsion. Chill to 28ºC. Cast.

Decor
Cacao Barry Zephyr 34% white chocolate, tempered
Yellow and white colored cocoa butter, tempered

To assemble:
1. Spray molds with colored cocoa butter according to photo or design of choice. Let set.
2. Make chocolate shells with Zephyr 34% white chocolate.
3. Pipe 2 g ganache in each cavity. Place half sphere of mango confit; top with another 1 g ganache.
4. Place disk of crunchy on top.
5. When ganache is set, seal with more Zephyr 34% white chocolate.

Recipe: Nitro Cricket Ice Cream

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Kristopher Edelen, also known as Chef KPE, launched HOTPANnyc, a pop-up catering company in New York City dedicated to native, post-modern cuisine, in February 2014. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America who’s been featured on the Food Network’s “Chopped” and “Cutthroat Kitchen,” Chef Edelen’s culinary goals center on helping our world rebuild itself using methods from our prehistoric diets, including foraging, sustainable farming, fishing, hunting and even entomophagy — eating insects.

Chef KPE demonstrated his technique for nitro-aerated ice cream using crickets at the ACF’s ChefConnect in Charlotte, N.C. in February. The recipe is below, if you’re feeling adventurous…

Ice cream base (Cricket Anglaise):
5 ounces fine textured cricket protein (TIP)
2 quart raw Guernsey milk
1 quart raw heavy cream
200 grams cane sugar
2 vanilla beans
0.90 grams pure vanilla extract
0.50 grams iota carrageenan
1 gram kappa carrageenan
5 liter liquid nitrogen
sea salt, to taste

Procedure:
1. Split vanilla beans lengthwise, scrape beans and reserve for later.
2. Gently heat milk and heavy cream in a small sauce pot. Add sugar, vanilla extract, vanilla beans and sea salt. Whisk until sugar is dissolved.
3. Crumble the fine cricket TIP and place in a blender. Add half the hot base and blend on high until the TIP is fully incorporated. Slowly add remaining hot cream mix and blend on high until all is fully blended and looks velvety.
4. Filter base through a fine sieve. Let base cool on a ice bath before transferring to an US Quart iSi Gourmet Whip (Siphon). Charge your Siphon with four N2O cream chargers and shake vigorously. Into a freezer-safe bowl (preferably metal), carefully pour your liquid nitrogen. Once the nitrogen is in the bowl, quickly release your charged Siphon with the base inside.
5. Begin to carefully break the frozen chunks into bite-size pieces while mixing. Hold the cricket ice-cream in the freezer or continue pouring nitrogen until ready to serve.

Cricket Crunch:
225 grams cane sugar
118 grams water
3 tablespoons pastured butter
4 ounces dehydrated crickets, chopped
100 grams golden syrup
5 liters liquid nitrogen
1/8 teaspoon baking soda
sea salt, to taste

Procedure: Cricket Crunch
1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, add butter, sugar and salt. Slowly caramelize the sugar until golden brown. Carefully add the water and golden syrup (the sugar will begin to pop). Clip on a candy thermometer and let it reach to 290 F. Be careful to not let the temperature get too high.
2. Once your sugar syrup is up to temperature, quickly add the crickets and baking soda. Pour your solution onto a silpat.
3. Once the solution is slightly cooled, pour liquid nitrogen on top. Crack the cricket crunch in the bowl, carefully pour the liquid nitrogen over the crunch and break up the frozen pieces. Set aside.

Assemble
Take both frozen nitro treats, mix together inside of a large metal bowl. Finish with more liquid nitrogen and give it a toss. It’s now ready to plate and serve!

Click here for a printer-friendly version. And check out our interview with Chef KPE in the spring issue of Sizzle.

Make the perfect matzo balls

Recipe by Natalia Garzon, owner, Leave It… To Me! // photos by Jen Brooker Photography

Step 7b

The history of the matzo ball comes from the Old Testament of the Bible. In the book of Exodus, when Moses led the Jews from Egypt the Jewish people had no time to pack in their escape. All they had to eat was an unleavened mixture of flour and water. Out of respect, contemporary Jewish people forgo all leavened forms of bread during Passover. The only bread allowed is matzo, the same unleavened flour and water bread eaten by the fleeing Jews of the Old Testament.

The texture of the matzo ball defines the flavor profile. Dense matzo balls, known as sinkers, taste more like matzo meal and do not include a leavening agent. Light matzo balls, known as floaters, use a leavening agent such as baking powder. Floaters have more air pockets that allow for the absorption of the liquid in which they are poached.

There are many different recipes for matzo balls and the use of a leavening agent is up to the chef. The below recipe provides a “middle ground” final product, in which the matzo balls retain the matzo flavor while absorbing enough liquid to be infused with moisture, herbes de Provence and the broth flavor.


Matzo Ball Rules

Rule 1: Chemical Leavening
Baking powder will help create air pockets, which helps with the absorption of broth.

Rule 2: Hydration
The matzo ball mixture needs to rest in the refrigerator before cooking to allow the absorption of liquid; otherwise it will be impossible to form or shape.

Rule 3: Poaching Method
Matzo balls need to be cooked in chicken broth. Pay attention to the temperature of the liquid. For top quality, take the time to make good chicken stock. Matzo balls cooked in water will have a bland taste.

Rule 4: The Broth
Matzo balls are served in chicken broth, which should be clear and not cloudy.


Ingredients:
1⁄4 cup matzo meal
1 egg
1 T schmaltz or vegetable oil
1 T liquid chicken broth (or water)
Dash baking powder
1 t. Herbes de Provence
Salt and white pepper to taste
2 quarts poaching liquid (chicken broth or water)

To serve:
1 quart clear chicken broth
Brunoise carrots for garnish

Equipment list:
Measuring cups
Measuring spoons
Medium bowl
Rubber spatula
Stockpot with lid
Tongs


Step 1. Arrange mise en place.

Step 1

Step 2. In a bowl, mix together all ingredients. Refrigerate mixture for at least 30 minutes.

Step 2

Step 3. In a medium pot, bring chicken broth to a boil.

Step 3

Step 4. With wet hands, form matzo mixture into golf ball-sized balls.

Step 5. Gently place matzo balls into boiling chicken broth.

Step 6. Cover the pot, reduce heat to low and poach matzo balls for 20 minutes. Do not uncover the pot while cooking. The poaching liquid should maintain a temperature of 160°F and 180°F.

Step 6b

Step 7. Remove matzo balls from poaching liquid and serve in warm chicken broth garnished with brunoise carrots.

 

Redefining Chasseur Sauce

By Joel Schaefer, CCC, and Mary Schaefer, CEPC

“If we’re going to move forward, we need to understand the past.”  — Ferran Adria

Before the 18th century, large pieces of meat were cooked until their juices released andACF 2 caramelized. The pan was then deglazed to create a sauce.

In the 19th century, Marie-Antoine Carême realized how expensive and cumbersome it was to make these sauces. He figured making a standard broth base to use for all sauces would be less expensive and would save time in the kitchen.

Carême organized the French sauces into groups that were based on four foundational sauces. Later, Auguste Escoffier added one more sauce and refined the list to the contemporary five “mother sauces,” which he structured in recipe form in Le Guide Culinaire in 1903.

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Espagnole Sauce

By Joel Schaefer, CCC, and Mary Schaefer, CEPC

The French say espagnole sauce, Americans say please pass the brown gravy.Bob's Red Mill gravy_resized

Espagnole has been around since the late 1500s. The sauce was introduced in England by Katherine of Aragon during her marriage to King Henry Vlll. Her team of chefs introduced this sauce, which was very complicated, time consuming and expensive.

The sauce was refined and simplified by Auguste Escoffier. He was called “The Chef of Kings and The King of Chefs,” and is considered by many to be the father of modern day cuisine. It is a classic sauce that has stood the test of time and is still a driving force in today’s culinary cuisine.

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